So just come back from the island and anyone who's been in the UK the last couple of days will be amazed to hear we did actually get some climbing in... woke up to some good weather yesterday morning, Friday night was washed out by weather and heavy traffic going down, but didn't look like it was going to hold so the plan to go down to the hidden zawn to sent the 7a that had handed my arse to me on a plate last time down was abandoned (low tide wasn't until earlier afternoon) and instead we headed to my favourite haunt of the New Cuttings where Sian wanted to have a go at Bun Fight at the Portland Corral 5+ maybe 6a. Well we both onsighted, well I onsighted and she flashed it if you want to get specific, so I turned my attention to Deadlosski must Die which, at 7b, would be the hardest route I'd ever done on rock. I knew the finish would be fine, it shares a top with two routes I'd done previously, but that meant that all the 7b difficulty would be at the start in concentrated form... took a while to sort the sequence but after 30/40 minutes work all the moves were just about there, the draws where in and it was time to rest. First red point attempt was a big time failure - bad feet and a hot head saw me kneeling at the bottom gasping after falling off mid crux sequence. So with the sun out it was time for food and a lie down; there was a one hell of a blow coming off the sea but the new cuttings is sheltered at the bottom so a touch of sunbathing was undertaken and I might even have dozed off for a while. Second proper redpoint I breathed properly, slowed the pace, and thought about me feet.... so much so that I found myself looking at my left hand mid crux sequence having taken if off the rock thinking "where does this go then??? oh right crimp" - I suspect my beautiful belay slave was going apoplectic at this point.... anyways long story short finished it off with the most beautiful feeling I have climbing (well since I felt exactly the same thing on Stompin' with Bez a few weeks earlier but that's the point isn't it...)
so what today - rest I think, took a lot out of me, as did the drive back through the monsoon this morning, tomorrow back to the Grisham arm sequence then some light bouldering in the shed Tuesday and a master class with the man Grisham at the westway on Wednesday (30th birthday present from the wife!!!). Actually I've got to take the cardboard to the recycling so that's what for now
peace out

Okay so where did I get up to......

4. Do a handful of respectable problems (low sevens) in North Wales over Easter

had a good time up in Wales - will definitely go back,different B&B though, the one we stayed at was nice and all but the bed was about as firm as cotton wool which played havoc with my back. So where did we climb, the pass mostly which was very cool, actually it was damp and snowy but still got a handful of decent problems done - failed on the edge problem though the penultimate left crimp just wouldn't stick, shame becuase the sit start felt really easy... went to the Ormes too; spent too much time warming up then working (and sending) lickity split so had next to nothing left for the cave

5. Get my bug bears in the boulderfield wrapped up before access becomes an issue i.e. after a buggy is added to the bouldering gear list (see 10) - namely Acid House, Lightning Strike and Liquid Sunshine

Nope, not done any of these yet - might have a go this weekend but have a problem down at hidden zawn that needs doing first - if I can catch the tide right -beautiful V6/7a - done every move, done every move into every other move, just need to do it in one....

6. get back on a rope in Portland - finish tipping the scales and complete/do the top halves of Deadlosski must die and Subyouth for starters

did tipping - felt easy but working the top move was a little spicy as there is a bolt missing an I took a ground fall off the top - sounds more spectaular than it was only my toes reached the ground, Sian did a great job of arresting the fall as she almost flew to the first clip! Plan to get on Deadlosski tomorrow - will report back.... onsighted down town charlie brown which was very pleasing cause for me the height thing is very scary - have done a dozen or so 8 to 12m 7a/+'s too; those freak me out less....

7. Up my limestone grade to V8 with Lats, bolts and babes and Stomping with Bez (new cuttings)

right - lats will not go for me too tight and powerful on the right leg - oh well know your limitations... on the other hand Stompin' went a couple of weeks ago -so stoked - I think having fallen off after the crux then repeatedly failing on the crux move really bit into my bouldering confidence and I now feel like a big weight is off my shoulders - I wouldn't say I a proper V8/7b climber yet but suddenly it's less intimidating for some reason

8. Get back on the grit next winter and visit the buggy accessible places I've been saving/staying away from recently (see 10) inc the Eagle stone, Burbage South and Curbar

it's not next winter yet but did have a good peak trip over Easter - did Gorilla Warfare and Early Doors - the latter is so much the better problem, and put on a rope to get Rubicon 3rd go - yay
Not so yay - went to horseshoe, had a good low 6's session before lunch then went up to the upper tier and freaked myself out big time on a couple of slabs. Falling big on Rubicon was fine as you drop into space but I am really scared of hurting my back/leg again - might have come to the conclusion that slabs are fine to boulder but ropes - no

9. Not get too cynical about work

there have been times but on the whole....

10. Become a Dad

working on it


so off to the island this afternoon for a couple of days - weather looks mixed but if nothing else the break'll be good - had a good session at craggy yesterday - did a couple of mid 7's on the comp' wall and surprisingly, seeing as they've been up for ages and are pretty slick with chalk, grease and boot rubber they felt easier than when I first did them a few months ago which must mean I am slowly getting stronger- yay

as for now, well done some of the the house work and watched the Gilmore girls so just packing and chilling left I guess.....

peace out

Man I haven't been a good blogger have I... too lazy I guess, been busy either working climbing or, for the past couple of weeks, watching Euro 08... My adopted Dutch are out, it was a good match last night though no shame being beaten by a better side, just like there's no shame in walking away from a problem - there's always another day with better skin, better conditions and better beta... yes last weekend I got my butt handed to me on a plate by a 7a in the barrel zawn on the island - fantastic problem just spent too long finding the sequence - tide and time wait for no man - well should have been time, tide, humidity and lack of skin - it'll go, one of those where I've go every move and moreover every move into every other move, just go to link it so here hoping for the weather over the long summer holiday - wasn't that poorer weekend mind - did get Stompin' with Bez - my 7b/V8 project - felt easy in the end - just conditions really - mine and the rock. The running I've started doing has been helping with the fitness - not when I run with the German though, that's just slow death. Strength is better too - well power endurance anyways - been doing circuits on the "ladies board" in the shed - might get those elusive one armers too by the end of the summer if the training goes well. so six months into the year how's it going??????

10 things to do in 2008.

1. Stay injury free for a change

getting there... the back is still a bitch with sciatica especially if I've been marking - four hours yesterday to get the lower school exams turned around - one of the reasons for not being on the island today. As always got a pull on my left ring finger but some things you have to live with

2. Having come to the conclusion that I'll never be that technical train to get very strong indeed

again progress is being made - was running campus circuits with 10 Kg on the harness the other day and the lock offs felt easy :-)
3. Do a handful of respectable problems (low sevens) in Font Easter half term

so that was graviton and le quark at sabot, danse avec les lupes at 95 and a couple of others

- seeing as the conditions were damp to say the least I'm pretty happy - unfortunately I've got a new project -Rubis sur l'Ongle at gorge aux chats - got 2/3's up on my first sessions which happened to be my last day so next time for certain especially as I have located Jasper Sharpes' Beta on youtube - thanks Robstarfish....

gotta scoot now - be back working through those aims in a bit

it's been a long time - been busy and didn't have much constructive to say....
new year and all that kinda thinking about what I did last year and what I want from the next

a tread on ukb got this out of me regards of top threes for the year gone by climbing wise

Top three boulder probs, UK

1) Boyager - Burbage north (one session)
2) Subyouth - Portland (too many sessions to count...)
3) Satin - Stanage (4th go)

and banana reverse (B' North), hot ride and Pete's rib (portland), and Mermaid (B' Bridge) - this had been a long term niggle as I first tried it with a slipped disc (misdiagnosed) which went from bad to f#cking terrible whilst on the problem and consiquently I had a slightly irrational fear of getting back on it...

Top three boulder probs, abroad

1) L'Obique - Font
2) La Voie Michaut - Font
3) Inversee Satanique - Font

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

don't do trad - too chicken

Top three sport routes UK

did my first ever outdoor route this year - Accelerator (portland) but that was about it...

Top three new prob' put up

seemed to put up a lot of problems that were quickly retro-claimed on Portland... some were good, some weren't

and another got these ten out of me for next (mostly climbing related!!)

10 things to do in 2008.

1. Stay injury free for a change
2. Having come to the conclusion that I'll never be that technical train to get very strong indeed
3. Do a handful of respectable problems (low sevens) in Font Easter half term
4. Do a handful of respectable problems (low sevens) in North Wales over Easter
5. Get my bug bears in the boulderfield wrapped up before access becomes an issue i.e. after a buggy is added to the bouldering gear list (see 10) - namely Acid House, Lightning Strike and Liquid Sunshine
6. get back on a rope in Portland - finish tipping the scales and complete/do the top halves of Deadlosski must die and Subyouth for starters
7. Up my limestone grade to V8 with Lats, bolts and babes and Stomping with Bez (new cuttings)
8. Get back on the grit next winter and visit the buggy accessible places I've been saving/staying away from recently (see 10) inc the Eagle stone, Burbage South and Curbar
9. Not get too cynical about work
10. Become a Dad

come back in 12 months see what's what...

right now I'm being that sad bastard whose really into training - hang board, campus board but with good reason - Font in Feb, North Wales in March with at least one Portland trip in between I hope. So when I'm not training or doing the house husband thing (back to school Sunday - trying not to think about it too hard) it's nose in the guide books and watching the bleau.info vid's for beta - Roche aux Sabots with Sian, Stef and, whose knows, maybe the man himself Jo M again!!! gonna be good - and this time it won't be 30+ and humid......

ok kiddywinks, it's been almost a month and I haven't posted, couple of reasons, not a great deal to report and anyways no-one much reads this save me so it's kinda just a way to record my thoughts climbing-wise....

so was down on portland on the weekend, spent a hour on Saturday morning huddled under the bouldering tarp, weird weather, walked down in bright sunshine and just as we where turning off to go down to the tank boulder (just got Christopher Columbus to do - done the reverse, don't know why I tried them that way round...) and it absolutely pissed it down... so just sat it out and then headed back to doze 'til it all dried....

afternoon was fine, went down and flashed flowers on the razor wire (6c) after some effort and a nice long rest at the final break.. then went over to work tipping the scales (7a) and got very close but split a tip.... Sian worked phat traverse (V2) for a good long while, sorted the start before I did too, and managed every move but couldn't link it.... Sunday morning was fine so went down again to try and redpoint tipping the scales but the tip opened up on my first try, got to the crux but it was too painful, hadn't warmed up my fingers properly either so a bit of a waste of time really.... went and flashed space manoeuvres (V4), well flashedish... the top just exploded out in my hand on the flash attempt and a bit more came off with me 2nd go so I think it was third time lucky.. screwed my right sacroiliac joint a bit falling, need to watch what high balling I do in future and make sure I'm able to reverse atleast a few moves if it's a jumper...

and I read all of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows yesterday....

another reason for posting was I was started thinking by one of Dom's Rock On ad's which finished with the question "who has inspired you and why?"

Inspired - to inspire - verb, fill (someone) with the urge or ability to do or feel something, especially do something creative. Firstly it brings up the very good point that climbing is a creative experience - just think about the brain racking that goes on when you're trying to dream up a sequence, and not just any sequence - a sequence that works for you, with your strengths and weaknesses - equally when you're trying to help a friend with sequence and having to adapt it to theirs.... but that's off the point, inspired, who... well lets get rid of the obvious watching the modern "heroes" of the sport doesn't fit the bill, sometimes I'm in awe of what the do and how they do it but it doesn't inspire me, I don't have that talent, I'm never gonna get a V12 in twenty minutes like Ty or climb a 9a DWS like Sharma or do any of the amazing things the stick called Dave Graham can do... sure I'll watch them amazed (and often do when it's time for a rest but I still need a fix.. actually more often when I'm injured!) but it's not in the spirit of how I define inspired.... actually maybe it should be who (and/or what) has inspired you blah etc.... the what is easy to think of and hard to put into words, for me it's a line of obvious natural beauty, example I remember the first time I ever saw not to be taken away in the flesh (or stone I guess), saw it from the road and it struck me, saw it up close and I had to do it... couldn't... way too hard for me back then but it was in the back of my mind for ages, then finally go on it and was at the top in three goes.... couldn't climb again for at least an hour the buzz of the realisation was that much... same with pete's rib at the neddyfields, saw it the first time down there and couldn't touch it but a few months later with more understanding and a couple of sessions under the belt it went... so back to the who, easy really it's people I've actually climbed with... not just seen climbing either on DVD or even in the flesh... not people I've climbed in the same places as but people I've climbed with, people who've had my back when I've need a spot, people who've got a problem before me and my ego's forced me to get back on for one last go so as not to be out done, people who haven't got a problem before I have which spurs me on to get it first, people who've given me beta, people I've given beta to, people I've belayed and who've belayed me... you get the picture the people who've really inspired me to climb are the same people who I like to think of as my friends and if that sounds soppy to you I don't give a flying monkey's whatsit because that's just the way it is.... (one last thing there is an inspiration I have in common with Dom....I had the oppertunity a while back to climb with Sam Whittaker for a day and he is without doubt the man... sponsored hero maybe but such a down to earth and enthusiastic bloke as you'd ever meet so not a friend but a guy I've climbed with and certainly a force of nature.....)

oh and 'cause I found it on the hard-drive this is a very cool picture taken by a mate of mine when he worked out in Saudi....

I'm back baby....

more with a wimper than a bang but nevermind slowly slowly

back at craggy this afternoon with the kids from school, new set of problems courtesy of the man Croxall et al (big up to Mark for his 13th place in the world cup in Italy on the weekend). Good problems pretty powerful and longer than I really like but good for working.

Finger held up ok but the core was a tad lacking, still only way to get better is train, the stuff I've been doing down on Portland are pretty balancy straight ups or two move wonders so viva la difference.........

New Portland vid is made and should be up on the interweb within the next week or so...

here comes the summer holiday.... yay for me.....

hi-de ho
not been blogging much cause not been climbing much, we'll shouldn't have been climbing much, got a jersey pull on my left ring finger... Boo.... :-( tried to go an climb sensibly within my limit indoors, no bouldering etc, ended up campusing with Justin's new 10k weight vest, looked like the bloody unibomber
anyways about a quarter of the way into a self enforced fortnight off, doing some weights and swimming but mostly just trying to get through to the end of term in one piece
might get round to putting together another portland movie next weekend.... watch this space
for now, peace out