had a long chat with my mate Jake (the prodigy) Storm for the first time in ages the kid's psyched for climbing again and sending V9... now that should make me pissed but really I'm stoked for the boy, there's nothing that's gonna make me feel bad about my own abilities (and short comings) as a climber right now, there's too many people round here who are negative and it doesn't help anyone, so he's 14 and burning me off, so I just train and enjoy it and I might catch where he is now in two years time when he's off doing double digits!
the whole positive vibe thing is on my mind at the moment, it was blowing a mean one down on the isle this morning so we skipped off Portland and came home... and I wasn't bummed about missing a day's climbing.... firstly I had no skin anyways and I couldn't really top what I'd sent the last two days/three sessions...
got down late Sat' and headed to the Neddyfields where I got vacillate like forth go after being cut to pieces on it the visit previous.... held the offensive crimp different and bore down of the tiny nobble on the obvious side pull like a dirty crimp... use the smallest part of the biggest hold, who'd have thought it.... made yup from that and the fact that Sian was sending new stuff too I repeated a couple of mid grade favourites then made short work of both Indian Summer and Fontanel (my second V7!). Played on Pete's rib a couple of times and made a little progress but our mates showed up and Fish and chips called so the summer's project could wait...
Ate far too much and stayed up way to late talking comic books and climbing but such is life....
Sun am set for the Boulderfield and the idea to show Al some mid grade beauties and let the girls go off and devise hideous short persons sequences....
Kinda a normal session to start, played on Nu Breed (classic), once again failed to find the starting holds on global underground then went to repeat made in the shade.... which Al pointed out was on the next face of the boulder so the hideous thing I sent 18 months ago was left unrepeated and hopefully forgotten... so played on MITS and and Rocky and Diesel (which the girls then got on and had to derive a sequence with about seven extra moves... sounds like a route to me),
then went off and failed to repeat Jimbo's classic Africa.. way too greasy..
As we had waited for the girls to get lost on the walk in and before we'd started playing (hard with no shoes) I'd had a look at the new scarer Terminator nasty arse land and a crimp fest on mega friable rock (at the start and top out anyways)... never really thought I'd get up it but the line reminded me of all those cool pictures of problems in Rocky Mountain National Park so I thought I'd just try the moves.... 6 or 7 tries later and my second V7 of the weekend (if your counting that's my 3rd ever)... Al wanted to try the tank so we carted off down there briefly.. on reflection bend your arms to look like wings is probably V5-I went coward and reported it as V5/6 but after repeating it....
the whole positive vibe thing is on my mind at the moment, it was blowing a mean one down on the isle this morning so we skipped off Portland and came home... and I wasn't bummed about missing a day's climbing.... firstly I had no skin anyways and I couldn't really top what I'd sent the last two days/three sessions...
got down late Sat' and headed to the Neddyfields where I got vacillate like forth go after being cut to pieces on it the visit previous.... held the offensive crimp different and bore down of the tiny nobble on the obvious side pull like a dirty crimp... use the smallest part of the biggest hold, who'd have thought it.... made yup from that and the fact that Sian was sending new stuff too I repeated a couple of mid grade favourites then made short work of both Indian Summer and Fontanel (my second V7!). Played on Pete's rib a couple of times and made a little progress but our mates showed up and Fish and chips called so the summer's project could wait...
Ate far too much and stayed up way to late talking comic books and climbing but such is life....
Sun am set for the Boulderfield and the idea to show Al some mid grade beauties and let the girls go off and devise hideous short persons sequences....
Kinda a normal session to start, played on Nu Breed (classic), once again failed to find the starting holds on global underground then went to repeat made in the shade.... which Al pointed out was on the next face of the boulder so the hideous thing I sent 18 months ago was left unrepeated and hopefully forgotten... so played on MITS and and Rocky and Diesel (which the girls then got on and had to derive a sequence with about seven extra moves... sounds like a route to me),
then went off and failed to repeat Jimbo's classic Africa.. way too greasy..As we had waited for the girls to get lost on the walk in and before we'd started playing (hard with no shoes) I'd had a look at the new scarer Terminator nasty arse land and a crimp fest on mega friable rock (at the start and top out anyways)... never really thought I'd get up it but the line reminded me of all those cool pictures of problems in Rocky Mountain National Park so I thought I'd just try the moves.... 6 or 7 tries later and my second V7 of the weekend (if your counting that's my 3rd ever)... Al wanted to try the tank so we carted off down there briefly.. on reflection bend your arms to look like wings is probably V5-I went coward and reported it as V5/6 but after repeating it....
Ate too much at White Stones (high street Easton, can't miss it) and slept all afternoon then back to Neddyfields so Al could try the Accelerator... Had no skin myself so I thought I'd just practice the first few balancy moves on Pete's Rib again... however when you suddenly find you're a slap away from the top you have to go for it and man did I yelp when I held it... the summer's project done, the 3rd V7 of the weekend and all on video (I really wasn't expecting to get it I've just got a sieve like memory for sequences to filming sometimes helps....)
Back for an Indian (Portland Spice - half the price and twice as good as what we get in Surrey) collapse into bed and that takes us up to the gales that woke us up this morning....
Gotta grow some skin, get back in the woodie and get even stronger for North Wales in three weeks time... (Oh and we might go back and give the problems at craggy a second chance)
Why
Back for an Indian (Portland Spice - half the price and twice as good as what we get in Surrey) collapse into bed and that takes us up to the gales that woke us up this morning....
Gotta grow some skin, get back in the woodie and get even stronger for North Wales in three weeks time... (Oh and we might go back and give the problems at craggy a second chance)
Why
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