Friday 4 July 2008

Okay so where did I get up to......

4. Do a handful of respectable problems (low sevens) in North Wales over Easter

had a good time up in Wales - will definitely go back,different B&B though, the one we stayed at was nice and all but the bed was about as firm as cotton wool which played havoc with my back. So where did we climb, the pass mostly which was very cool, actually it was damp and snowy but still got a handful of decent problems done - failed on the edge problem though the penultimate left crimp just wouldn't stick, shame becuase the sit start felt really easy... went to the Ormes too; spent too much time warming up then working (and sending) lickity split so had next to nothing left for the cave

5. Get my bug bears in the boulderfield wrapped up before access becomes an issue i.e. after a buggy is added to the bouldering gear list (see 10) - namely Acid House, Lightning Strike and Liquid Sunshine

Nope, not done any of these yet - might have a go this weekend but have a problem down at hidden zawn that needs doing first - if I can catch the tide right -beautiful V6/7a - done every move, done every move into every other move, just need to do it in one....

6. get back on a rope in Portland - finish tipping the scales and complete/do the top halves of Deadlosski must die and Subyouth for starters

did tipping - felt easy but working the top move was a little spicy as there is a bolt missing an I took a ground fall off the top - sounds more spectaular than it was only my toes reached the ground, Sian did a great job of arresting the fall as she almost flew to the first clip! Plan to get on Deadlosski tomorrow - will report back.... onsighted down town charlie brown which was very pleasing cause for me the height thing is very scary - have done a dozen or so 8 to 12m 7a/+'s too; those freak me out less....

7. Up my limestone grade to V8 with Lats, bolts and babes and Stomping with Bez (new cuttings)

right - lats will not go for me too tight and powerful on the right leg - oh well know your limitations... on the other hand Stompin' went a couple of weeks ago -so stoked - I think having fallen off after the crux then repeatedly failing on the crux move really bit into my bouldering confidence and I now feel like a big weight is off my shoulders - I wouldn't say I a proper V8/7b climber yet but suddenly it's less intimidating for some reason

8. Get back on the grit next winter and visit the buggy accessible places I've been saving/staying away from recently (see 10) inc the Eagle stone, Burbage South and Curbar

it's not next winter yet but did have a good peak trip over Easter - did Gorilla Warfare and Early Doors - the latter is so much the better problem, and put on a rope to get Rubicon 3rd go - yay
Not so yay - went to horseshoe, had a good low 6's session before lunch then went up to the upper tier and freaked myself out big time on a couple of slabs. Falling big on Rubicon was fine as you drop into space but I am really scared of hurting my back/leg again - might have come to the conclusion that slabs are fine to boulder but ropes - no

9. Not get too cynical about work

there have been times but on the whole....

10. Become a Dad

working on it


so off to the island this afternoon for a couple of days - weather looks mixed but if nothing else the break'll be good - had a good session at craggy yesterday - did a couple of mid 7's on the comp' wall and surprisingly, seeing as they've been up for ages and are pretty slick with chalk, grease and boot rubber they felt easier than when I first did them a few months ago which must mean I am slowly getting stronger- yay

as for now, well done some of the the house work and watched the Gilmore girls so just packing and chilling left I guess.....

peace out

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