Wednesday 23 July 2008

okay so I guess I'm ill.... had a few low energy days and I've finally given in and turned to Uncle Beecham for help.

Went up to Lincolnshire on the weekend to see the in-laws, managed to sneek off on the Friday to Cratcliffe - had a great morning, just me and a million flies trying T crack - didn't get it but felt really good about the progress 'til I found I'd been using a foot hold that was out and not used a hand hold that was in (eliminates ehh), that's when it bit and the lack of skin got to me (conditions were less than kind - very damp). Climbed the wall above Jerry's at 7a 3rd go but this didn't make up for it.

Went to outside for lunch and was reading climber (that's where I found out about the eliminates) - got mad and went back when I shouldn't.... actually turned left and went to Robin Hood's Stride to do the cave original - shouldn't have bothered - I was beaten and the slopers were, well wet would be a very accurate description. messed around with a crap sequence for too long.... in the end did all the moves but didn't have enough to put it together - will go back and it'll be easy - so that was a recipe of 3 days off till my hand's stopped bleeding..

Yoga on Monday again - still hard work. Mostly Iyengar yoga so holding poses with correct alignment etc - lots of downward facing dog that makes my shoulders and triceps feel like they're gonna explode....

Tuesday went to Craggy - low energy day - now, with hindsight decided it was an ill day - warmed up on the traverse and did the 7a - cruxy, actually only one hard move... then started doing multiples - first triple (6b+) felt okay the second also (6b+ but sandbag) managed only 1 1/2... too hot, arms didn't have any stamina in them. training wasn't happening so went and tried the new routes on the comp' wall. Nice routes but grading - now firstly really what do I know - nothing really but I can have my say. Now compared to Westway where I've climbed 7b+ and outdoors in at Portland, Rubicon and Horseshoe, where I've been climbing up to 7b the grades on the craggy comp wall are bogus - was told that "Westway was 2 grades soft" because "the girls are climbing 8a at the Westway!" Now granted the shortness of the craggy wall needs extra difficulty but the stuff I've been doing outside is shorter.... why whine, grades mean nothing anyway... actually they do - ego is there if it isn't you'd never push to improve and rubbish grading can kick your psyche in the nuts....

okay moan over, need to concentrate on getting better now and maybe plan some real rock routes to get me energised again.... back to watching the Tour..... out

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