So I'm typing with fingers covered with anti-hydral (purchased by my tame German - thanx JPS) which'll probably give you a clue as to what I've been doing today - yep training again...
After the Westway which left me broken yesterday was a rest day which basically involved mowing the lawn, waiting for England to take a wicket (didn't happen) and watching back to back Sopranos on DVD. So today, after taking the pig in for a new exhaust - driving back from the westway I heard the roar of a superbike, but there was no bike... just a detached tail pipe! - I tidied and hoovered the shed before doing an hour's bouldering on the 40(ish) degree board - got a new cramped traverse followed by stretchy rock up, very nice, can do the end bit fine (6b/c?) and can do the traverse in and up to the last move, but not quite the last move.... will get there and it's gonna be about 7a+ I guess...
Half an hour for lunch and onto the power endurance, unfortunately 36+ degrees in the shed had lost me a bit of skin... opps.... So did 50 hand moves on the yellow circuit clockwise , 10 minutes off then 50 hand moves anti-clockwise... the catch up moves on the traverse bits can count on that one because they're all weight bearing... 10 more minutes rest followed by a hybrid of the 2 blue's, 4 big slopery pinchy types at the top, half a dozen crimps from slap along the bottom; about 10 proper hand moves each way round so aiming for 5 laps... 3 1/2 laps clockwise was a bit disappointing so after 10 minutes rest went anti and got 4 laps, fell got straight back on and did the +1.... it hurt, arms, fingers, shoulders the lot - tried to get on the red which only really works with no matching and crossing, made about 20 moves and died, no skin too painful to move on and off the holds.... Had something left though so did some dead hangs, 15 sec on 45 off with 10Kg on a harness holding 1st - full hand slopers shoulder width plus a bit apart, 2nd - open handed on 2 joint sloping crimps, 3rd - half crimp on campus rung and 4th - matched on full hand sloper.... 3 sets and that was about that...
The wife is dragging me off to yoga tonight so tomorrow will definitely be a rest/skin growing day - i.e. watch one tree hill reruns and doing the house work - how glam.....
After the Westway which left me broken yesterday was a rest day which basically involved mowing the lawn, waiting for England to take a wicket (didn't happen) and watching back to back Sopranos on DVD. So today, after taking the pig in for a new exhaust - driving back from the westway I heard the roar of a superbike, but there was no bike... just a detached tail pipe! - I tidied and hoovered the shed before doing an hour's bouldering on the 40(ish) degree board - got a new cramped traverse followed by stretchy rock up, very nice, can do the end bit fine (6b/c?) and can do the traverse in and up to the last move, but not quite the last move.... will get there and it's gonna be about 7a+ I guess...
Half an hour for lunch and onto the power endurance, unfortunately 36+ degrees in the shed had lost me a bit of skin... opps.... So did 50 hand moves on the yellow circuit clockwise , 10 minutes off then 50 hand moves anti-clockwise... the catch up moves on the traverse bits can count on that one because they're all weight bearing... 10 more minutes rest followed by a hybrid of the 2 blue's, 4 big slopery pinchy types at the top, half a dozen crimps from slap along the bottom; about 10 proper hand moves each way round so aiming for 5 laps... 3 1/2 laps clockwise was a bit disappointing so after 10 minutes rest went anti and got 4 laps, fell got straight back on and did the +1.... it hurt, arms, fingers, shoulders the lot - tried to get on the red which only really works with no matching and crossing, made about 20 moves and died, no skin too painful to move on and off the holds.... Had something left though so did some dead hangs, 15 sec on 45 off with 10Kg on a harness holding 1st - full hand slopers shoulder width plus a bit apart, 2nd - open handed on 2 joint sloping crimps, 3rd - half crimp on campus rung and 4th - matched on full hand sloper.... 3 sets and that was about that...
The wife is dragging me off to yoga tonight so tomorrow will definitely be a rest/skin growing day - i.e. watch one tree hill reruns and doing the house work - how glam.....
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